I’d approach this as a paint-preservation job first and a cleaning job second. Painted urban trash bins are usually powder-coated metal or painted plastic, and harsh solvents can dull, soften, or strip the finish faster than the graffiti itself. Start with gloves, eye protection, and ventilation if you’re using any solvent-based product. If the bin belongs to the city or a property manager, check their rules first.
Knock off loose dirt, then test any cleaner on a small hidden area and let it dry before you commit. Begin with the mildest option: warm water, a little mild dish soap, and a soft brush or microfiber cloth. Many fresh marker tags come off this way. For stickier residue, try a citrus-based or water-based graffiti remover labeled safe for painted surfaces—apply it to a cloth or small area, let it sit briefly, and agitate gently. Don’t let any remover dry on the paint, and rinse thoroughly.
Avoid acetone, lacquer thinner, MEK, wire brushes, and aggressive high-pressure washing. On plastic bins, solvents can melt or cloud the surface; on powder coating, abrasives can leave dull patches. If you use a pressure washer, keep it on low pressure with a wide nozzle and keep distance. For spray-paint graffiti, a dedicated sensitive-surface graffiti remover is often better than DIY solvents, but follow the dwell time exactly. If the paint is already chipped, clean gently and plan a touch-up with an exterior paint matched to the bin.
Catch rinse water with towels or absorbent pads and keep it out of storm drains, especially around solvent-based products. For recurring graffiti, clean promptly and consider an anti-graffiti sacrificial coating so future tags release more easily. If the tag is large or the bin is public property, call the municipality or a graffiti-removal contractor rather than risk damaging the finish.